Follow the step by step guide below for assistance with this repair

iFixit Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7.0 Digitiser Replacement Guide

Here are some tools you may need to help you complete the repair.

• #000 1.5mm Metal Phillips Screwdriver Tool (PH000)
• #00 Metal Phillips 2.0mm Screwdriver Tool (PH00)
• uFix iOpener Microwaveable Heated Bag Opening Tool
• Large Blue Suction Cup Opening Tool
• iGadget 5 piece opening picks
• 5x iGadget Plastic Flexible Opening Cards
• Nylon Antistatic Spudger Pry Tool
• Box of Isopropyl Adhesive Cleaning Alcohol Pad Wipes x100
• 2mm Tesa Tape 61395 Roll Double Sided Adhesive Tape (100m)

Here are some helpful tips to assist you in completing a safe repair on your device. If you are unsure of something or have any questions, please feel free to contact us either by phone (0508 IGADGET) or by email

• Drain the battery below 25% before you start on this repair
• Power the tablet off and take out the SIM and microSD cards before you open it.
• The plastic back cover is held on by clips, with no heat needed: start at the bottom next to the charging port and work a pick along the bottom and sides to release them, never forcing it.
• Always track your screws (Phillips #000 or #00) so they go back in the right place. Draw a picture of your tablet and tape the screws to it, or use a screw mat
• Always unplug the battery before you remove any other parts. Keep metal tools away from the battery, and never bend, crush or puncture it.
• The battery is held by screws, not glue: take them out and lift the battery away so you can reach the board.
• Release the board connectors with the spudger, including the two speaker cables at the bottom, then lift the board out from the top so the glass flex is free.
• The button flex and the rubber grommet over the headphone jack are stuck down: peel them off slowly so they go back in place.
• The glass is glued to the frame over the LCD. Warm the edges with the iOpener in short bursts (too much heat can damage the battery and LCD), lift a corner with the suction cup if the glass is whole, then work picks and cards around no more than 2 to 3mm in so you don't scratch or crack the LCD, which you reuse. Start at the camera cut-out at the top edge.
• Clean the old adhesive off the frame with isopropyl alcohol, and keep dust and fingerprints off the LCD before the new glass goes on.
• Feed the new glass flex through to the board the same way the old one came out, so it isn't pinched when the back goes on.
• Refit the board and battery, connect the new glass and test touch across the whole screen before you seal it in, and leave the protective film and stickers on until the new glass is working properly.
• The new glass has no adhesive fitted and none comes in the box. Once touch is tested, run a strip of 2mm Tesa tape around the frame, then press the glass down evenly so it sits flat.
• Press the back cover on all the way round until every clip clicks in.