Check out the video above or the step by step guide below for assistance with this repair

The video shows the original iPad Air, which comes apart the same way as the iPad 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9.

iFixit iPad 9 Battery Replacement Guide

iFixit iPad 8 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement Guide

iFixit iPad 7 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement Guide

iFixit iPad 6 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement Guide

iFixit iPad 5 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement Guide

iFixit iPad Air Wi-Fi Battery Replacement Guide

Here are some tools you may need to help you complete the repair.

Please note: A discounted simple toolset with the tools you need is available in a pop-up when you add this product to cart

• #000 1.5mm Metal Phillips Screwdriver Tool (PH000)
• #00 Metal Phillips 2.0mm Screwdriver Tool (PH00)
• uFix iOpener Microwaveable Heated Bag Opening Tool
• CPB 320 Repair Heat Pad for mobile phones and tablets
• Large Blue Suction Cup Opening Tool
• iGadget Plastic Triangle Opening Picks (set of 5)
• iPlastix Flexible Opening Tool by Dottorpod
• 5x iGadget Plastic Flexible Opening Cards
• Nylon Antistatic Spudger Pry Tool
• Mechanic AK-15 King ESD Anti-Static Stainless Steel Red Curved Tweezers
• iGadget Plastic Alcohol 200mL Bottle with Pump Top
• 2mm Tesa Tape 61395 Roll Double Sided Adhesive Tape (100m)
• iGadget Universal Magnetic Work Project Mat with Marker (30cm x 25cm)

Here are some helpful tips to assist you in completing a safe repair on your device. If you are unsure of something or have any questions, please feel free to contact us either by phone (0508 IGADGET) or by email

• Drain the battery below 25% and power the iPad off before you start. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire if it's punctured or damaged
• The glass is glued to the frame and the LCD sits under it as a separate panel. Warm the edges with the iOpener or heat mat in short passes, lift the glass with a suction cup and work opening picks round slowly, keeping them shallow so they don't catch the LCD or its cables
• Track your screws on a magnetic mat or tape them to a drawing of your iPad, so each one goes back in the right place
• Disconnect or block the battery as soon as you can reach it, before you remove anything else. Keep metal tools away from the battery, and never bend, crush or puncture it.
• The battery connector is a set of spring contacts under one 2.3mm #000 screw. Slide a battery blocker or a plastic card under it before you lift the logic board
• The battery is glued to the back case. Drip isopropyl alcohol under each edge, wait a minute, then work plastic cards under the cells slowly. Never use metal tools on the battery, and never bend the cells
• Remove every bit of the old battery adhesive and clean the case with isopropyl alcohol. Peel the liner from the new battery's adhesive strips, press the battery into place and reconnect it, then check the iPad powers on and charges before you close it up
• Fit new adhesive, such as 2mm Tesa tape, round the frame before you press the screen back on, then hold it down evenly while the adhesive sets
• If your iPad doesn't turn on or show a picture after the repair, force restart it: press and hold the top button and the Home button together until the Apple logo appears