Check out the video above or the step by step guide below for assistance with this repair

iFixit iPhone XS Max Battery Replacement Guide

Here are some tools you may need to help you complete the repair.

Please note: A discounted simple toolset with the tools you need is available in a pop-up when you add this product to cart

• P2 Metal Pentalobe 0.8mm Screwdriver Tool
• Y000 Metal Triwing Tri-Point 0.6mm Screwdriver Tool
• #000 1.5mm Metal Phillips Screwdriver Tool (PH000)
• Large Blue Suction Cup Opening Tool
• Mechanic AK-15 King ESD Anti-Static Stainless Steel Red Curved Tweezers
• iGadget Plastic Triangle Opening Picks (set of 5)
• 5x iGadget Plastic Flexible Opening Cards
• Nylon Antistatic Spudger Pry Tool
• Or get the P2, Y000 and #000 screwdrivers, suction cup, tweezers, opening pick, opening card and spudger together in our 8 Piece iPhone Repair Toolkit
• Metal Stand-Off 2.5mm Screwdriver Tool
• iSclack Evo (Gen 3) Suction Cup Opening Tool for phones and tablets by Dottorpod
• uFix iOpener Microwaveable Heated Bag Opening Tool
• iHold Evo Screen Holding Opening Tool for iPads and iPhones with USB-C Adapter by Dottorpod
• iGadget Plastic Alcohol 200mL Bottle with Pump Top
• iPhone XS Max Waterproof Adhesive
• iGadget Universal Magnetic Work Project Mat with Marker (30cm x 25cm)

Here are some helpful tips to assist you in completing a safe repair on your device. If you are unsure of something or have any questions, please feel free to contact us either by phone (0508 IGADGET) or by email

• Drain the battery below 25% and power the phone off before you start. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire if it's punctured or damaged
• Remove the pentalobe screws at the bottom edge. Warm that edge with the iOpener in short bursts, as too much heat can damage the battery. Lift the screen with a suction cup (or an iSclack) and work an opening pick around no more than 3mm deep, clear of the right-edge display cables and the top Face ID sensors
• Clips hold the top edge as well as adhesive. Pull the screen slightly down towards the Lightning port to free them, then open it from the left like a book. Prop it up (an iHold Evo helps) until the cables are unplugged
• Track your screws on a magnetic mat or tape them to a drawing of your phone. They're different lengths, and a long screw in a short hole can damage the logic board
• Always unplug the battery before you remove any other parts. Keep metal tools away from the battery, and never bend, crush or puncture it.
• Remove the logic board cover and display connector brackets, unplug the front sensor, OLED and digitiser cables and lift the screen off. Remove the lower bracket, loudspeaker (standoff screws) and Taptic Engine to reach the battery. The lower bracket is lightly glued: warm it gently with a hair dryer, not the iOpener, which can bend its spring contacts
• Four stretch-release strips hold the L-shaped two-cell battery: three along the bottom edge and one on the top cell. Pull the two outer bottom strips first and the centre one last, low and flat, without snagging the loudspeaker flex. Hold the battery as you pull. If a strip breaks, drip isopropyl alcohol under that edge, wait a minute, then lift the battery slowly with a plastic card. Never pry near the Face ID parts by the top strip, which only Apple can repair
• Refit the Taptic Engine and loudspeaker first so the new battery lines up. Clean off old adhesive and fit the new adhesive strips from the box. Press the battery connector down until it clicks, then check the phone powers on and charges before you seal it up
• Clean off the old screen adhesive with isopropyl alcohol and fit a new screen gasket adhesive before you close it up
• If the new battery drains fast or shuts off, reseat the battery connector, check it for foam or debris and make sure the flex isn't strained, then do a force restart